Cambodia Lonely Planet

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//-->4© Lonely Planet Publications5On The RoadNICK RAY Coordinating AuthorThis photo was taken at Prasat Preah Vihear(p268), the king of the mountain temples, and hasto be one of my favourite views in Cambodia –the extensive plains of lowland Cambodia meltinginto the infinite horizon. It’s possible to approachthe temple via a motorway from the Thai side ofthe border, but much more of a challenge is amotorcycle adventure from the Cambodian side.This was where the Khmer Rouge made theirlast stand, so you still need to be careful of landmines, but equally dangerous are the ferociouswinds that whip across the ridge. Make sure thosetent pegs are firmly secured!© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitallyrestricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposesonly. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it toeveryone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of sayingthe above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’DANIEL ROBINSONOn Battambang’s ‘bamboo train’ (see p247), you click and clack through the country-side on warped rails – until two cars meet on the single track. The car with more passengers (or carryinga motorbike like the one behind me in this photo) is given priority; the other car has to be disassembledto allow it through.For full author biographies see p360.© Lonely Planet Publications9ContentsOn the Road41214192025445663727375768183889091919196104106107109111112113113114115116116Siem ReapHistoryOrientationInformationDangers & AnnoyancesSightsActivitiesSiem Reap for ChildrenSleepingEatingDrinkingEntertainmentShoppingGetting There & AwayGetting AroundAROUND SIEM REAPPrek Toal Bird SanctuaryAng Trapeng ThmorReserveFloating Village ofChong KneasFlooded Forest ofKompong PhhlukKompong Khleang118119119119122123125126126130134135135136138138138139139139139Cambodia Highlights 5DestinationCambodiaGetting StartedEvents CalendarItinerariesHistoryThe CultureEnvironmentFood & DrinkPhnom PenhHistoryOrientationInformationDangers & AnnoyancesSightsActivitiesWalking TourPhnom Penh for ChildrenToursSleepingEatingDrinkingEntertainmentShoppingGetting There & AwayGetting AroundAROUND PHNOM PENHKien SvayUdongTonlé BatiPhnom Tamao WildlifeSanctuaryPhnom ChisorKirirom National ParkTemples of AngkorHistoryArchaeology of AngkorArchitectural StylesOrientationInformationItinerariesToursGetting There & AroundANGKOR WATSymbolismArchitectural LayoutBas-ReliefsANGKOR THOMBayonBaphuonRoyal Enclosure &PhimeanakasPreah PalilayTep PranamPreah PithuTerrace of The LeperKingTerrace of ElephantsKleangs & Prasat SuorPrat14014014714814914914915215215415515615715916116316416416416416516516510CONTENTSAROUND ANGKORTHOM166Ta Prohm166Baksei Chamkrong168Phnom Bakheng168Prasat Kravan169Banteay Kdei & Sra Srang 169Ta Keo169Ta Nei169Spean Thmor170Chau Say Tevoda170Thommanon170Preah Khan170Preah Neak Pean171Ta Som172Eastern Baray & EasternMebon172Pre Rup173Banteay Samré173Western Baray & WesternMebon173ROLUOS TEMPLES173Preah Ko174Bakong174Lolei174AROUND ANGKOR174Phnom Krom174Phnom Bok175Chau Srei Vibol175Banteay Srei175Kbal Spean176Phnom Kulen177Beng Mealea178Remote Angkorian Sites179TAKEO PROVINCETakeoAround Takeo227228230NorthwesternCambodiaKOMPONG CHHNANGPROVINCEKompong ChhnangPURSAT PROVINCEPursatNorthern CardamomMountainsKompong LuongBATTAMBANGPROVINCEBattambangAround BattambangKRONG PAILINPailinSamlautBANTEAY MEANCHEYPROVINCEPoipetSisophonBanteay Chhmar &Banteay TopODDAR MEANCHEYPROVINCESamraongO SmachAnlong VengPREAH VIHEARPROVINCEPreah KhanKoh KerTbeng MeancheyTmatboey IbisProjectChhep Vulture FeedingStationChoam KsantPrasat Preah VihearKOMPONG THOMPROVINCEKompong ThomAround KompongThom232234234236236238239240240246250250252252252253255256257257258261262264265267267267268270270272KOMPONG CHAMPROVINCEKompong ChamAround Kompong ChamMemotKRATIE PROVINCEKratieAround KratieChhlongSnuolSTUNG TRENGPROVINCEStung TrengRATANAKIRI PROVINCEBan LungAround Ban LungMONDULKIRI PROVINCESen MonoromAround Sen MonoromMimongKoh Nhek280280283284285285287287288288289291292296298299302303304Directory305305306307308308309309309312312313313313313313314314314315317317317319320320320321321322322323South CoastKOH KONG PROVINCEKrong Koh KongKoh Kong ConservationCorridorKOMPONG SOMPROVINCESihanoukville180182182186193193Colours ofCambodiaAround SihanoukvilleKAMPOT PROVINCEKampotAround KampotBokor National ParkKompong TrachKRONG KEPKepAround Kep201213214215218219223224224227Eastern CambodiaSVAY RIENG PROVINCESvay RiengPREY VENG PROVINCEPrey VengNeak LuongBa Phnom275277278278278279279AccommodationActivitiesBusiness HoursChildrenClimate ChartsCoursesCustoms RegulationsDangers & AnnoyancesDiscount CardsEmbassies & ConsulatesFestivals & EventsFoodGay & Lesbian TravellersHolidaysInsuranceInternet AccessLegal MattersMapsMoneyPhotography & VideoPostShoppingTelephone & FaxTimeToiletsTourist InformationTravellers with DisabilitiesVisasVolunteeringWomen TravellersWork© Lonely Planet PublicationsC O N T E N T S11Transport324324324324327332333333334334335335338338339339GETTING THERE & AWAYEntering the CountryAirLandToursGETTING AROUNDAirBicycleBoatBusCar & MotorcycleHitchingLocal TransportPick-Up, Share Taxi & JeepTrainFurther ReadingOther PreparationsIN TRANSITDeep Vein Thrombosis(DVT)Jet Lag & MotionSicknessIN CAMBODIAAvailability & Cost ofHealth CareInfectious DiseasesTraveller’s DiarrhoeaEnvironmental HazardsWomen’s Health341341343343343344344344347348350Language DifficultiesNumbers & AmountsShopping & ServicesTime & DaysTransport355356356357357GlossaryThe AuthorsBehind the ScenesIndexGreenDexWorld Time ZonesMap LegendLanguageTransliterationPronunciationAccommodationConversation &EssentialsDirectionsHealth351352352353353354354HealthBEFORE YOU GOInsuranceRecommendedVaccinations341341341341358360361365372374376Regional Map ContentsSiem Reapp120Temples ofAngkor pp142-3Eastern Cambodiap276NorthwesternCambodia p233Phnom Penhpp74-5South Coastp181© Lonely Planet Publications12lonelyplanet.comD E S T I N AT I O N C A M B O D I A13Destination CambodiaFAST FACTSPopulation:About 15 millionLife expectancy: 58 yearsInfant mortality:95 per 1000 birthsGDP: US$8.3 billion (2007)Adult literacy rate: 73.6%Number of tourists peryear: 2 million and risingNumber of monks inCambodia: 60,000Annual freshwater fishcatch: 290,000–430,000tonnes per yearBombs dropped on Cam-bodia: 539,000 tonnesNumber of psychiatristsin Cambodia: 20There’s a magic about Cambodia that casts a spell on many who visit thischarming yet confounding kingdom. Ascend to the realm of the godsat the mother of all temples, Angkor Wat, a spectacular fusion of sym-bolism, symmetry and spirituality. Descend into the hell of Tuol Slengand come face to face with the Khmer Rouge and its killing machine.Welcome to the conundrum that is Cambodia: a country with a historyboth inspiring and depressing, an intoxicating place where the future iswaiting to be shaped.The years of fear and loathing are finally over and Angkor is once morethe symbol of the nation, drawing pilgrims from across the globe. Peacehas come to this beautiful yet blighted land after three decades of war,and the Cambodian people have opened their arms to the world. Tourismhas well and truly taken off, yet a journey here remains an adventure asmuch as a holiday.Contemporary Cambodia is the successor state to the mighty Khmerempire, which, during the Angkor period, ruled much of what is nowLaos, Thailand and Vietnam. The remains of this empire can be seen atthe fabled temples of Angkor, monuments unrivalled in scale and gran-deur in Southeast Asia. The traveller’s first glimpse of Angkor Wat, theultimate expression of Khmer genius, is simply staggering and is matchedby only a few select spots on earth, such as Machu Picchu or Petra.Just as Angkor is more than its wat, so too is Cambodia more than itstemples. The chaotic yet charismatic capital of Phnom Penh is a hub ofpolitical intrigue, economic vitality and intellectual debate. All too oftenoverlooked by hit-and-run tourists ticking off Angkor on a regional tour,the revitalised city is finally earning plaudits in its own right thanks toa gorgeous riverside location, a cultural renaissance, and a dining anddrinking scene to rival the best in the region.Siem Reap and Phnom Penh may be the heavyweights, but to someextent they are a bubble, a world away from the Cambodia of the country-side. This is the place to experience the rhythm of rural life and timelesslandscapes of dazzling rice paddies and swaying sugar palms. Spend sometime in thesrok(provinces), as Cambodians call them, enjoying adar leng(walkabout) to discover the true flavour of the country.The south coast is fringed by tropical islands, with barely a beach hutin sight. The next Ko Samui or Gili Trawangan awaits discovery and, fornow, visitors can play Robinson Crusoe. Inland from the coast lie theCardamom Mountains, part of a vast tropical wilderness that providesa home to elusive wildlife and is the gateway to emerging ecotourismadventures. The mighty Mekong River cuts through the country and ishome to some of the region’s last remaining freshwater dolphins; cyclistsor dirt bikers can follow the river’s length as it meanders through trad-itional communities. The northeast is a world unto itself, its wild andmountainous landscapes a home for Cambodia’s ethnic minorities andan abundance of natural attractions, including thundering waterfalls andpristine crater lakes.Despite this beautiful backdrop, life is no picnic for the average Cam-bodian. It remains one of the poorest countries in Asia and it’s a tough ex-istence for much of the population, as they battle it out against the whimsof nature and, sometimes, of their politicians. According to the UnitedNations Development Programme (UNDP; www.undp.org), Cambodiaremains poorer than Mongolia and El Salvador, just scraping in aheadof Mauritania, while Transparency International (www.transparency.org), the anticorruption watchdog, rates the country a lowly 151 outof the 163 countries ranked. Income remains desperately low for manyKhmers, with annual salaries in the hundreds of dollars, not thousands,and public servants such as teachers unable to eke out a living on theirmeagre wages.Cambodia’s pristine environment may be a big draw, but much of itis currently under threat. Ancient forests are being razed to make wayfor plantations, rivers are being sized up for major hydroelectric powerplants and the south coast is being explored by leading oil companies.All this helps add up to an ever-stronger economy, which is growing atan incredible 10% a year, but it’s unlikely to encourage the ecotourismthat is just starting to develop.Cambodia is like the teen starlet who has just been discovered by anadoring public: everyone wants something from her but not everyonewants what is best for her. The government, long shunned by interna-tional big business, is keen to benefit from all these newfound opportuni-ties. Contracts are being signed off like autographs and there are concernsfor the long-term interests of the country.Tourism has brought many benefits to Cambodia: it provides oppor-tunity and employment for a new generation of Khmers, has helped tospark a rebirth of the traditional arts, and has given the country a renewedsense of pride and optimism as it recovers from the dark decades of warand genocide. However, not all tourism has been good for the countryand there is the dark side of sex tourism, human exploitation and a casinoculture. Cambodia is in a great position to benefit from the mistakes ofother countries in the region and follow a sustainable road to tourismdevelopment. However, it may be that the government is more focusedon the short-term gain that megabucks investments can provide. CanCambodia be all things to all visitors? So far, so good, but a new era isabout to begin and the beaches are the next battleground.There are two faces to Cambodia: one shiny and happy, the other darkand complex. For every illegal eviction of city dwellers or land grab bya general, there will be a new NGO school offering better education, ora new clean-water initiative to improve the lives of the average villager.Such is the yin and yang of Cambodia, a country that inspires and con-founds. Like an onion, the more layers you unravel, the more it makesyou want to cry, but these are spontaneous tears, sometimes of sorrow,sometimes of joy.Despite having the eighth wonder of the world in its backyard, Cam-bodia’s greatest treasure is its people. The Khmers have been to hell andback, struggling through years of bloodshed, poverty and political insta-bility. Thanks to an unbreakable spirit and infectious optimism, they haveprevailed with their smiles intact; no visitor comes away from Cambodiawithout a measure of admiration and affection for the inhabitants of thisenigmatic kingdom.Cambodia: beaches as beautiful as Thailand but without the touristtide; wilds as remote as Laos but even less explored; cuisine as subtle asVietnam but yet to be discovered; and temples that leave Burma and In-donesia in the shade. This is the heart of Southeast Asia, with everythingthe region has to offer packed into one bite-sized country. If you wereonly planning to spend a week in Cambodia, it’s time to think again.Cambodia is still a pre-dominantly rural societyand as much as 80%of the population stilllives in the countryside,working in agricultureand fishing. [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]