Cabinet - Dry Sink Cabinet

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THE MORE THINGS CHANGE
By KONRAD SAUER
Photo by DAVE STARRETT
Illustration by LEN CHURCHILL
This authentic cherry dry sink can serve a dual purpose
About the same time as my furniture-making hobby started getting
serious, my wife and I found out we were going to be parents. Much joy,
much panic. The usual discussions ensued—we needed all the stuff
associated with the care, maintenance and entertainment of a baby.
We quickly realized we had nothing.
More panic, not so much joy. Calls to
family and friends secured everything
we thought we'd require. Everything
that is, except a change table.
I remembered seeing a picture in a
magazine of an antique dry sink being
used as a change table and thought:
what a great idea! Building a dry sink
to do double-duty as a change table
makes good sense. The dimensions,
storage space and recessed top are perfectly suited to handling baby's,
uh, needs. And long after the last diaper changes are forgotten, the
project remains as a beautiful and practical heirloom.
The Design
My research into old dry sinks quickly yielded a list of good and bad
design features—and defined how my dry sink would look. It would be a
piece of fine furniture, not the usual rustic slapped-together variety. It
would be fairly decorative: raised panel construction for the doors and
sides; a wide lip around the top edge; and beading on the outside
corners—to soften the look. And it would feature bracketed feet, a
single, simple drawer and really wide face frames, like something you'd
see on an old Waterloo county cupboard.
Getting Started
Like many of my projects, this one starts
with rough-sawn cherry. Whether you
dress it yourself, or have the lumberyard
do it, plane all the boards to 7/8" thick.
Sticker and stack the boards for a few
weeks to acclimatize the wood, then lay
out the pieces for the project, paying close
attention to grain orientation. Make sure
the grain and colour of the wood for the
panels matches that of the frames. When
choosing the pieces for the outside
corners, match the grain and colour there
too. The goal is to ensure a seamless look
in the final project. When all the pieces are
laid out, cut the rails, stiles, and panel
boards for the main case and doors. The
back of the dry sink is also built with
frame and panels. Not only does this
contribute to the heirloom quality of this
project, but it also lets you hone your
skills on three less conspicuous panels
before diving in to the four that are more
visible. When all the pieces are cut, glue
up the seven panel blanks. Before gluing,
true the edges using a Stanley No. 8
jointer plane or a powered jointer.
click above to enlarge
1 - Cherry Dry Sink
|
2 - You Will Need
|
3 - Construction, part 1
THE MORE THINGS CHANGE
(part 2)
By KONRAD SAUER
Photo by DAVE STARRETT
Illustration by LEN CHURCHILL
YOU WILL NEED
For the Main Case
Size
Qty.
Front stiles
7/8" x 3 1/8" x 30"
2
Back stiles
7/8" x 4 1/4" x 30"
2
Back middle stiles
7/8" x 4 1/4" x 22 1/2"
2
Front side stiles
7/8" x 4" x 30"
2
Back side stiles
7/8" x 3 1/8" x 30"
2
Top front rail
7/8" x 4 1/2" x 30 1/2"
1
Back rails
7/8" x 4 1/2" x 43 1/4"
2
Side rails
7/8" x 5 5/8" x 16 1/4"
4
Back panels
7/8" x 11" x 19 1/4"
3
Side panels
7/8" x 13 1/4" x 19 1/4"
2
Sink bottom
7/8" x 19 7/8" x 47"
1
Bottom--antique pine
3/4" x 18 3/4" x 47 3/4"
1
Drawer divider
7/8" x 3 3/4" x 19 7/8"
1
Drawer runner
7/8" x 3 1/2" x 12 7/8"
1
Bridge
7/8" x 3 1/2" x 15 5/8"
1
Shelf--antique pine
3/4" x 18 1/2" x 45 3/4"
1
Shelf cleats
3/4" x 1 1/2" x 18 1/2"
2
For the Top
Long frame
7/8" x 2 1/4" x 50 1/4"
2
Short frame
7/8" x 2 1/4" x 23"
2
Top panel
7/8" x 15 1/4" x 19 1/2"
1
For the Doors
Stiles
7/8" x 3 1/4" x 23 3/4"
4
Rails
7/8" x 3 1/4" x 16 1/4"
4
Panels
7/8" x 13" x 18"
2
Divider
7/8" x 2 1/2" x 25 1/4"
1
For the Base
Foot blanks
1 1/4" x 2 1/2" x 7 1/2"
8
Long frame
7/8" x 3 1/4" x 23 3/8"
2
Short frame
3/4" x 18 3/4" x 47 3/4"
1
Front and back cove strips
7/8" X 7/8" X 49 1/2""
2
Side cove strips
7/8" x 7/8" x 22 1/4"
4
For the Drawer
Drawer face
5/8" x 3 3/4" x 18 3/4"
2
Drawer sides
3/4" x 18 3/4" x 47 3/4"
1
Drawer bottom
3/4" x 10 1/8" x 18 1/4"
1
Hardware
Hinges--solid
brass
3/4" x 2"
4
Knobs
1 1/4" dia. Classique Hardware
#MWK-S100.12C
3
All parts cherry unless otherwise indicated
THE MORE THINGS CHANGE
(part 3)
By KONRAD SAUER
Photo by DAVE STARRETT
Illustration by LEN CHURCHILL
A roundover on the base frame
transitions to a cove detail of the same
proportions and is echoed again in the
corner bead detail
THE FLUSH-faced drawer runs
smoothly without mechanical fasteners.
Blind dovetails join the drawer sides to
the face
While the panel blanks are drying, mill the 1/4" dadoes in the edge of t he
rails and stiles to house the panels. A table-mounted router or tablesaw
equipped with a narrow dado blade are the best options for this
operation. Regardless of the tool you choose, make sure the grooves are
perfectly centred.
Mortises and Tenons
Lay out and cut all the mortises first. There's lots, so a dedicated
mortising machine or a drill press fitted with a mortising attachment
makes sense. When all the mortises are complete, clean them up with a
sharp chisel. Now layout the tenons using one of the mortises as a
template. Make the shoulder cuts for the the tenons first, then the chee k
cuts. Use a tablesaw fitted with a tenoning jig, or make multiple passes
over a dado blade and remove the waste with a chisel. Once all the
tenons are cut, dry fit the frames.
The Raised Panels
After the glued-up panel blanks are dry, remove any hardened
squeeze-out with a chisel. Dress the panel blanks using a smoothing
plane or well-tuned scraper. Square the panels to their final dimensions
and mark the profile of the raised panel on the edges. The width of the
raised edge is 1 1/4"—too wide for a router and panel-raising bit to
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