Cabinet - Display Cabinet 3

[ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]
Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions
684
 #/8"
chamfer
B
TOP
Case
The basic case of this dis-
play cabinet is quite simple
— just a pair of sides that
trap a top, bottom and a sin-
gle, fixed shelf, as you can
see in Fig. 1. Later, you’ll
add a vertical divider to cre-
ate the drawer openings, a
cleat for hanging the cabi-
net, and a plywood back.
But for now, you can focus
on the basic case pieces.
SIDES, TOP, BOTTOM & SHELF.
The first thing to do is cut
the
sides (A)
and the
top
,
bottom
and
shelf (B)
to size
from
3
/
4
"-thick stock. (I chose to
build this cabinet in cherr y, but it
would also look great in other woods
like oak or maple.) Before you rip the
top, bottom and shelf to width, note
that they’re slightly wider than the
sides so they will stand
1
/
8
" proud, as
shown in the photo at left and Fig.
1b.
The sides require the most work,
so I started with them. First, I cut a
chamfer on both ends, as shown in
Fig. 2. This is a fairly deep chamfer,
so instead of cutting it in multiple
passes with a router bit, I cut it on the
table saw using an auxiliar y miter
gauge fence to support the piece.
You can leave the auxiliar y fence in
place while you cut the dadoes to hold
the top, bottom, and shelf, as shown
in Figs. 1a and 3. And to make sure
the dadoes line up across from each
other, you’ll want to either add a stop
to the end of the auxiliar y fence or
use the rip fence as a stop, as I did in
Fig. 3. (You can do this because the
cuts don’t go all the way through, so
there are no waste pieces to kick back
at you.)
The last thing to do on the side
pieces is drill the series of
3
/
8
"-deep
holes for the L-shaped shelf supports
that will hold the glass shelves.
Before the case can be assembled,
you’ll need to do a little work on the
top, bottom and shelf. First, the front
edge of each needs a
1
/
16
" chamfer,
as indicated in Fig. 1b. Then in the
shelf and bottom pieces, you’ll want to
drill the two counterbored shank
holes that will hold the drawer divider.
1
!/2"
/2"
a.
B
FIXED SHELF
1
"
!/16
" chamfer
A
!/4
#/8"
-dia.
holes
deep
"
3"
!/2
!/4"
4
#/4"
NOTE:
All case pieces
are " solid wood
SIDE
#/4"
#/4
A
BOTTOM
B
1
"
!/2"
31
"
SIDE
DE
FIXED
SHELF
FRONT VIEW
Drill counterbored
holes for divider
before assembly
A
B
11
!/2"
b.
#/8"
-dia. counter-
bore
!/4"
deep
"
#/4
5
!/8"
B
{
Though this case
has some unique
features, it’s built
with basic dado
construction. For
more on cutting
dadoes and
grooves, see our
Woodworking
Basics
series at
PlansNOW.com
1
"
#/8"
!/8"
!/4"
ply.
A
!/16"
chamfer
23
"
#/16"
shank hole
B
1
B
5
"
BOTTOM
SIDE SECTION VIEW
2
3
Aux.
fence
Auxiliary miter
gauge fence
A
SIDE
4
#/4"
A
SIDE
Dado
blade
a.
END VIEW
a.
END VIEW
Aux.
fence
Aux.
fence
#/8"
Dado blade
#/4"
Blade
tilted 45°
SIDE
SIDE
A
A
!/4"
4
Scrap block
supports
router
base
Square corner
s
with chisel
SHELF
B
SIDE
Routing direction
NOTE:
Size rabbet to
hold
!/4"
plywood back
A
a.
b.
Rabbet
bit
Support
block
Waste
#/8"
A
B
Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions
page 4 of 10 ©2003 August Home Publishing
685
One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
All rights reser ved
From
Woodsmith
Magazine
D
HANGING
CLEAT
23
!/4"
2
!/2"
(It would be a bit awkward to do this
after assembly.)
Gluing this case together isn’t hard.
Just remember the top, bottom and
shelf stand proud in front of the case
and are flush in back.
After the glue on the case is dr y,
the next thing to do is rout the rabbet
for the
1
/
4
" plywood back panel. As
you can see in Figs. 4 and 4a, I did
this with a hand-held router, using
scrap blocks to help support the
router base so it wouldn’t tip. Then I
came back and cleaned up the cor-
ners with a chisel (Fig. 4b).
DRAWER DIVIDER
. Before you cut the
back to size, there are two other
pieces to make. First I cut a
drawer
divider (C)
to fit between the shelf
and bottom, as shown in Fig. 5. But
note that the front of the divider sets
back
1
/
8
", just like the sides (Fig. 5a).
After screwing the divider in place
(Fig. 5a), the screws can be covered
with
3
/
8
"-dia. wood plugs. (I’d recom-
mend you use face grain plugs here
so they’ll be less noticeable.)
HANGING CLEAT
. The next piece I
added was a
hanging cleat (D)
, as
you can see in Fig. 5. This way, when
hanging the cabinet on the wall later,
I had a
3
/
4
"-thick solid-wood piece to
screw through, instead of the
1
/
4
" ply-
wood back.
Making the cleat is a two-step
process. It’s cut to fit between the rab-
bets for the back, but to get it to fit
flush with the back, you’ll need to cut
a rabbet around three edges of its
front face, as shown in Figs. 5b and 6.
The second step is just cutting
another rabbet — this time, to match
5
L-shaped
glass shelf
support
E
BACK
( " ply.)
!/4
22
&/8"
-thick
glass shelf
with
polished,
"pencil-style"
edge
!/4"
22
!/4"
3”
&/ 8
#/8"
wood
plug
#8 x 1
Fh screw
!/4"
23
!/4"
DRAWER
DIVIDER
SIDE
C
A
NOTE:
Back cut to size
after hanging
cleat is added
3
!/2"
5
"
a.
b.
!/4"
ply.
TOP
CLEAT
C
B
Divider even
with sides
of case
D
#/8"
wood
plug
#8 x 1
Fh screw
!/4"
#/8"
BACK
SIDE
SECTION
VIEW
#/8"
E
SIDE
A
the rabbets in the case for the back,
as you can see in Fig. 7.
BACK
. When the cleat has been
glued in place, you can cut the ply-
wood
back (E)
to size and glue it into
the rabbet (Fig. 5b).
GLASS SHELVES
. You really don’t need
to order the glass for the shelves until
you order the glass for the doors later.
But I’ll just mention here that I used
1
/
4
"-thick glass that had polished,
“pencil-style” edges.
6
Aux.
fence
7
Aux.
fence
CLEAT
D
Aux.
fence
CLEAT
D
Dado
blade
Dado
blade
a.
END VIEW
a.
END VIEW
Aux. fence
NOTE:
Cut rabbet to hold
"
plywood back
Aux.
fence
NOTE:
Remaining
t
ongue should fit
rabbet in case,
see Fig. 5b
Aux.
F
ence
!/4
#/8"
#/8"
NOTE:
Rabbet cut
on back face
NOTE:
Rabbet cut
on front face
!/4"
ply.
!/4"
ply.
D
D
From
Woodsmith
Magazine
Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions
page 5 of 10 ©2003 August Home Publishing
686
One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
All rights reser ved
  DOOR STILE
NOTE:
Door frame
is -thick stock
#/4"
NOTE:
For hardware
sources, see page 35
F
GLASS
STOP
Doors
At this point, the case is ready for the
doors, and whether you build them
with glass or wood panels, the pro-
cedure starts out the same. The door
frames are built with a grooved bridle
joint. But more on that in a minute.
CUT TO SIZE
. Before cutting the
door
stiles (F)
and
rails (G)
to size (Fig. 8),
measure your case so the door pieces
can be cut to fit its opening. The stiles
are sized so there will be a
1
/
16
" gap at
the top and bottom of each door. The
rails are a bit more work, but at least
with a bridle joint, they’re the full
width of the door. Here, I allowed for
a
1
/
16
" gap on the sides of the case but
no gap between the two doors. (Later,
you’ll trim the edges where the doors
meet, as in Fig. 8b.)
BRIDLE JOINT
. With the pieces cut to
size, you’re ready to cut the bridle
joint, see Fig. 8a. I came up with a
quick jig (shown in the margin photo)
that eliminates one of the setups. And
I’ve described the jig (and how to cut
the bridle joint) on page 8 and 9.
DOOR PANELS
. If you’re building the
doors with wood panels, you’ll need
to make them
before
you glue up the
frame, see bottom of page 6. For glass
doors, you can glue up the frames
now. (Later, you’ll rout a rabbet for
the glass to fit into.)
HINGE MORTISES
. With the door
frames glued up, I cut the mortises for
the hinges next, as shown in Fig. 9.
This can be done at the table saw, and
I sized the mortises to match the full
depth of the hinge barrel, minus
1
/
16
"
G
DOOR RAIL
1"
#/4
H
8"
1
#/4"
H
Square
ring
pull
with
vertical
plate
GLASS
STOP
H
24
!/8"
F
21
!/4"
"-thick
glass
(sized "
smaller
than
rabbet
opening)
Dou
b
le
ball
cat
c
h
!/8
GLASS
STOP
2x 1
antique
brass
hinge
" #/8"
H
!/2"
-long
brad
G
8
11
#/16"
NOTE:
For
more on cutting
bridle joint, see page 17
a.
Shoulder will
be removed
to hold glass
b.
!/4"
!/16"
STILE
F
#/8"
!/2"
!/4"
NOTE:
Doors sized to
fit with no center
gap (trim after
hanging doors)
RAIL
!/16"
G
1
#/8"
!/4"
F
RONT
VI
EW
!/4"
1
#/4"
{
This jig lets you
cut the open
mortises without
having to adjust
the fence. For
details, go
to page 8.
for the gap. (The hinges are simply
screwed to the inside of the case.)
Now you can rout the back edges
of the doors to hold the glass, as in
Fig. 10. I used
1
/
4
"
glass stop (H)
to
mount the glass (Fig. 10b). And on
page 8, there’s a “miter box” I used to
cut the stops to length. (But you don’t
want to add the glass until the finish
has been applied to the project.)
HANG DOORS
. At this point, the doors
can be hung in the case. Then you
can trim their inside edges to create
the
1
/
16
" gap (Fig. 8a) and add the pulls
9
Tall
auxiliary
fence
10
11
NOTE:
Hinge
mortises cut on
door only (not case)
Rabbet
bit
1
#/4"
To create rabbet
for glass, remove
shoulder of groove
Door
frame
Dado
blade
Carpet
tape
FIRST:
Fasten
assembled catch
to door with
carpet tape
a.
END VIEW
a.
SECTION VIEW
Rabbet bit
b.
H
GLASS
STOP
Barrel of hinge
minus
!/16"
SECOND:
Mark locations
on door and case
!/2"
-long
brad
2"
Door
frame
Dado blade
Door
frame
THIRD:
Separate catch
and screw in place
CROSS
SECTION
From
Woodsmith
Magazine
Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions
page 6 of 10 ©2003 August Home Publishing
687
One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
All rights reser ved
%/16
!/8
    DRAWER STOP
( x)
L
!/4" !/4"
and catches. The double ball catches
I used can’t be adjusted after they’re
screwed in place, so for an accurate
installation, I positioned them with
carpet tape, as described in Fig. 11.
10
!#/16"
12
3
&/ 1 6 "
3
&/ 1 6 "
J
I
DRAWER
BACK
10
!/4"
DRAWERS
All that’s left now is to build the two
small drawers, as shown in Fig. 12. I
sized the
1
/
2
"-thick
fronts (I)
and
backs (I)
so the drawers would be
1
/
16
" smaller than the openings in
height and width. And the
sides (J)
are sized so the drawers would stop
1
/
4
" short of the back of the case.
LOCKING RABBET
. To create a strong
drawer without a lot of fuss, I decided
to use a locking rabbet joint (Fig. 12a).
It looks more complicated than it
really is. In fact it can be cut in three
quick steps on the table saw.
First, a centered groove is cut on
the ends of the front and back pieces,
as shown in Fig. 13. The key here is
that the height of the blade matches
the thickness of the drawer sides.
Next, I trimmed the inside face of
the front and back pieces to create a
I
DRAWER
FRONT
J
DRAWER
SIDE
4
#/16"
K
DRAWER BOTTOM
( ply.)
NOTE:
Drawer front,
back, and sides are
-thick stock
Square ring pull
with square plate
!/4"
4
!/2"
!/2"
a.
b.
c.
I
J
!/4"
ply.
SIDE SECTION
VIEW
!/8"
J
TOP VIEW
SECTION
VIEW
!/4"
!/4"
!/8"
!/4"
I
K
Ring
pull
Escutcheon
pins hold plate
!/4"
!/4"
!/2"
1
/
4
"-long tongue, as shown in Fig. 14.
The last step is to cut dadoes on
the sides (Fig. 15). Just position the
dadoes to line up with the tongues
cut in the fronts and backs (Fig. 12a).
BOTTOM
. Now each drawer piece is
ready for a groove that will hold the
1
/
4
" plywood
bottom (K)
, as in Fig.
12b. Then when the bottoms are cut
to size, you can glue the drawers
together and add the pulls (Fig. 12c).
STOP
. All that’s left now is to cut two
stops (L)
for the back of the case.
They’re sized so the drawer will end
up flush with the
sides
of the case.
(Mine were
1
/
4
” wide.)
W
13
NOTE:
Flip piece
between passes
14
END VIEW
15
END VIEW
!/8"
I
Aux. fence
!/4"
Aux. fence
!/4"
!/8"
DRAWER
FRONT/BACK
!/4"
!/8"
DRAWER
SIDE
Trim tongue in
multiple passes
Tall
aux.
fenc
e
J
Thickness of
drawer side
Inside face
I
!/4"
WOOD PANEL DOOR
For an elegant
storage
cabinet,
you can build the doors with wood
panels instead of glass. (You can
also add wood shelves inside.)
Each panel is sized so it’ll fit in
the grooves when the door is glued
together. (Be sure to allow a small
gap on each side so the panel can
expand and contract.) To create
the tongue, all you need to do is
rabbet each face, see drawing.
And when assembling the frame
and panel, remember
not
to glue
the panel into the frame.
Aux.
fence
Door panel
( x 8
- 21 ")
#/4" %/16"
!/4
Dado
blade
NOTE:
Tongue
sized to create gap
between panel and frame
!/8"
END
VIEW
Wood
panel
SECTION
VIEW
A
u
x
.
fenc
e
!/8"
&/ 1 6 "
!/4"
!/16"
Centered
brad
on rail
secures
panel
Door
frame
From
Woodsmith
Magazine
Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions
page 7 of 10 ©2003 August Home Publishing
688
One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
All rights reser ved
  [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]