Cabinet - kitchen-cabinet

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itchen Cabinet
Does anyone ever have enough kitchen cabinets? Here is one you can build for your
kitchen with just a modest knowledge of woodworking techniques. It contains two good-sized
drawers above, extra storage space below, and a wooden countertop. Place it against a wall, or
use it as a free-standing island. The
finished cabinet is 25 inches deep, 37
inches wide, and 37-1/2 inches tall.
This project is a little more advanced than
many of the others and requires you to
make several dadoes. You can avoid some
of the dadoes, by purchasing pre-made
cabinet doors and drawer fronts. Step-by-
step instructions for the doors and drawer
fronts are included if you want to make
them yourself.
Materials List
Lumber:
• 1 sheet ¾” plywood, 4’ x 8’*
• ½ sheet ¾” plywood, 4’x 4’*
• 1 piece ¼” clear plywood, 2’ x 2’
• 41 linear feet 1 x 4 pine*
• 5 linear feet 1 x 1 pine
• 1 piece Laminated 1 x 4 pine, 24” x
36”
• (OR 21 linear feet 1 x 4 pine)
• 2 drawer fronts, 5” x 13-1/2”
• 2 cabinet doors, 23-1/2” x 13-1/2”
(OR, to make your own doors and drawer fronts:
• 16 linear feet 1 x 2 pine*
• 4 sq. ft. ¼” plywood*
• 16 linear feet decorative molding, ½” wide x ¼” thick
1
K
Hardware:
• 1 lb. 3d finishing nails
• small wire brads
• 4 cabinet door hinges*
• 2 sets of drawer guides and rollers
• 2 drawer pulls
Special Tools and Techniques:
• web clamp
• 2 or 3 bar clamps (optional)
• dadoes
• miters
*See “Notes on the Materials,” below.
Cutting List
Code
Description
Qty.
Material
Dimensions
A Cabinet Side
2 ¾” plywood
23-1/2” x 36-3/4”
B Cabinet Back
1 ¾” plywood
34” x 36-3/4”
C Cabinet Shelf
2 ¾” plywood
23” x 34-1/2”
D Back Support
1 1 x 4 pine
34” long
E Top Rail
1 1 x 4 pine
35-1/2” long
F Side Stile
2 1 x 4 pine
30-1/4’ long
G Center Rail
1 1 x 4 pine
28-1/2” long
H Upper Center Stile
1 1 x 4 pine
4” long
I
Lower Center Stile
1 1 x 4 pine
22-3/4” long
J Bottom Base
1 1 x 4 pine, ripped 35-1/2” long
K Shelf Trim
4 1 x 1 pine
12-1/2” long
L Cabinet Top
1 Laminated pine
23-1/2” x 35-1/2”
M Long Top Trim
2 1 x 4 pine, ripped 37” long
N Short Top Trim
2 1 x 4 pine, ripped 25” long
O Drawer Front/Back
4 1 x 4 pine
12” long
P Drawer Side
4 1 x 4 pine
20” long
Q Drawer Bottom
2 ¼” plywood
11” x 20”
2
Notes on the Materials
If you want a natural finish on your cabinet, you need to buy stain-grade plywood, which is more
expensive. Otherwise, purchase paint-grade materials for all of the plywood specified. If you
opt for stain-grade plywood, make sure to choose wood with a matching grain for all of the parts
specified in pine in this materials list.
The top of the cabinet is constructed of laminated 1 x 4 boards. Most building-supply stores sell
sections of pine that have already been laminated. If you want to laminate the boards yourself,
you need 21 linear feet of 1 x 4 pine and at least two bar clamps.
To attach the doors, I used a decorative semi-concealed hinge. The visible side is attached to the
cabinet and the concealed side is attached to the back of the cabinet door. Other styles are also
available
Constructing the Cabinet Frame
1. Cut two cabinet sides (A) from ¾”-thick plywood according to the dimensions given in
Figure 1
Figure 1
2. Cut one cabinet back (B) from ¾”-thick plywood according to the dimensions given in
Figure 2.
3. Cut two cabinet shelves (C) from ¾”-thick plywood, each measuring 23 x 34-1/2”.
4. Inspect each face of the two cabinet sides (A), and choose the better ones to face outward
on the finished cabinet. On the inner faces of the two cabinet sides (A) and the cabinet
back (B), cut two dadoes, each ¾”-wide and ¼” deep, at the heights indicated in
Figures 1
and 2
. These provide support for the shelves (C).
5. Assemble the two sides (A), back (B), and two shelves (C), as shown in
Figure 3
. Note that
the shelves (C), slide into the dadoes. Check to make sure that all of the parts are square
3
and level. Use glue and 3-penny finishing nails spaced about 5 inches apart to secure the
pieces together, and fasten a web clamp around the assembly for added strength. Leave the
cabinet clamped overnight. (If you are unsure about how to use clamps for this assembly,
consult “Tips and Techniques” on our home page.
Figure 2
6. Cut one 34”-long back support (D) from 1 x 4 pine. Measure and draw a line 4 inches
down from the top across the cabinet back (B). Nail and glue the back support (D) to both
sides (A) and to the back (B). Place one nail every 6 inches. This strengthens the cabinet
and is used later to brace the metal drawer glides that support the drawers.
Adding the Rails and Stiles
The front of the cabinet consists of rails
(horizontal members) ad stiles (vertical
members). These members fulfill two
functions: they support the cabinet doors, and
they form the finished front. A diagram of
their placement is shown in
Figure 4
. It is
very important that you install each of the
stiles and rails so that they are all exactly
square, or your drawers and cabinet doors will
not fit properly.
Figure 3
1. Cut one 35-1/2”-long top rail (E) from 1
x 4 pine. Using glue and two finishing
nails on each end, attach the top rail (E)
flush with the top edges of the cabinet
sides (A), as shown in
Figure 4.
2. Cut two side stiles (F) from 1 x 4 pine, each 30-1/4” long, and attach them to the cabinet
sides (A) below the top rail (E). Use glue and 3-penny finishing nails, spacing the nails
about 6 inches apart. As shown in
Figure 4
, the stiles should be flush with the outer edges.
4
3. Cut one 28-1/2”-long center rail (G) from 1 x 4 pine, and attach it 4 inches below the top
rail (E), between the two side stiles (F). After applying glue, toenail the center rail (G) into
the side stiles (F) using two finishing nails on each end.
4. From 1 x 4 pine, cut one 4—long upper
center stile (H) and one 22-3/4”-long
lower center stile (I).
5. Attach the upper center stile (H)
between the top rail (E) and the center
rail (G), as shown in
Figure 4
. Apply
glue, and toenail the center stile (H) into
the top rail (E) and the center tail (G),
placing two finishing nails at each end.
The lower center stile (I) is attached to
each of the shelves (C). Make certain
that both of the shelves (C) are perfectly
level in the center. Use glue and two
finishing nails to attach the lower center
stile (I) to each of the shelves (C). Glue
and toenail the lower center stile (I) to the center rail (G).
Figure 4
6. Cut a 35-1/2” length of 1 x 4 pine. Rip the length to 3 inches in width, and attach the
resulting bottom base piece (J) across the bottom edge of the assembled cabinet so that it
covers the raw, bottom edges of the cabinet sides (A), as shown in
Figure 4
. To secure the
attachment, first glue all of the exposed joints. Then use two 3-penny finishing nails to
toenail the bottom base piece (J) to the lower center stile (H). Next, with two finishing nails
on each end, attach the bottom base piece (J) to the edges of the cabinet sides (A). Finally,
nail through the lower cabinet shelf (C) into the bottom base piece with finishing nails
placed about 6 inches part.
7. Cut four shelf trim pieces (K) from 1 x pine, each 12-1/2” long. Use glue and finishing
nails placed every 6 inches to attach the shelf trim (K) to the exposed fronts of each of the
shelves (C) between the stiles (F and I).
Making the Top
1. If you purchased material already laminated, trim the piece to 23-1/2 x 35-1/2 inches to
make the cabinet top (L). Then skip down to Step 4.
2. To do the lamination yourself cut seven lengths of 1 x 4 pine, each 35-1/2” long. Before
gluing the wood lengths together, it is a good idea to rip a minuscule amount from each
edge to ensure a solid bond in the lamination process. Then spread glue on the adjoining
5
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