Cabinet - Cherry Console

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NOW
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®
C
HERRY
C
ONSOLE
Basic frame and panel assemblies, a fast face frame,
and easy-to-build drawers — a perfect opportunity
to try a variety of woodworking techniques.
From
Woodsmith
Magazine
All rights reser ved
page 1 of 12
©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
52”W x 32”H x 18”D
Back
assembly
Drawers supported
from above and below
with simple frames
End
assemblies
rabbeted to
cover back
assembly
Panels
are two
layers of
" ply.
MATERIALS & SUPPLIES
A
End Panels (8)
!/4
ply.
- 5
(/16
x 21
!!/16
N
Front Center Stile (1)
#/4
x 2 - 8
#/8
AA
Dwr. Stops (4)
!/2
x
!!/16
- 8
rgh.
B
Front End Stiles (2)
#/4
x 2
!/8
- 31
O
Bottom (1)
#/4
x 15
&/ 1 6
- 48
!/2
BB
Adjustable Shelf (1) 1 x 15
!/8
- 47
&/8
C
Back End Stiles (2)
#/4
x 2
!/2
- 31
P
Bottom Cleat (1)
!/2
x
!/2
- 6
CC
Top (1)
1 x 18 - 52
D
Center End Stiles (2)
#/4
x 2
!/2
- 21
#/4
Q
Frame Cleats (4)
#/4
x 1
!/2
- 15
!/4
DD
Cove Molding
#/4
x
#/4
- 90
rgh.
E
Upper End Rails (2)
#/4
x 3
#/4
- 12
#/4
R
Frame Stretchers (4)
#/4
x 1
!/2
- 48
F
Lower End Rails (2)
#/4
x 3
!/2
- 12
#/4
S
Outer Dwr. Sprts. (4)
#/4
x 1
!/8
- 15
!/4
•
(24) #8 x 1
!/4
" Fh Woodscrews
G
Back Panels (8)
!/4
ply.
- 10
#/16
x 21
!!/16
T
Inner Dwr. Sprts. (2)
#/4
x 3
!/2
- 15
!/4
" Fh Woodscrews
•
(3) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews
•
(8) Plastic Stem Bumpers
•
(4) #8 x 1
!/2
H
Back Stiles (2)
#/4
x 2 - 31
U
Dwr. Fronts/Backs (4)
!/2
x 5
!/4
- 21
!/8
I
Back Center Stiles (3)
#/4
x 2
!/2
- 21
#/4
V
Dwr. Sides (4)
!/2
x 5
!/4
- 15
J
Upper Back Rail (1)
#/4
x 3
#/4
- 45
!/2
W
Dwr. Bottoms (2)
!/4
ply.
- 14
!/2
x 21
!/8
" Rh Woodscrews
•
(4) #8 Washers
•
(4)
!/2
K
Lower Back Rail (1)
#/4
x 3
!/2
- 45
!/2
X
Dwr. Trim
#/16
x 1
!/2
- 100
rgh.
L
Front Stiles (2)
#/4
x 2 - 31
Y
Dwr. Guides (4)
!/4
x
#/4
- 14
!/4
" Spoon-style Shelf Supports
M
Front Rails (3)
#/4
x 1
!/2
- 48
Z
Dwr. Runners (2)
1 x 1
!/2
- 15
!/4
•
(4) 1
!/4
" x 1" “Ring” Knobs (Bronze)
From
Woodsmith
Magazine
All rights reser ved
page 2 of 12
©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
!/4
(back-to-
back)
•
(8) #8 x 1
1
a.
Grooves and stub
tenons match
thickness
of plywood
b.
#/4"
#/4"
J
3
!/2"
G
"-deep
groove in
sides
I
"-deep
groove in
back
Plug
3"
End & Back Assemblies
Before getting started, it’s always a
good idea to familiarize yourself with
how a project goes together. This con-
sole isn’t complicated at all. It starts
out with three frame and panel assem-
blies that join to form the ends and
back of the case. Later, you’ll add a
face frame and a bottom panel, but
there’s nothing tricky about this.
As I mentioned, the back and end
assemblies are built first. This is
mostly just cutting stub tenons and
grooves, but instead of cutting the
frame pieces to size first, it’s best to
start with the panels.
PANELS
. As you can see in Fig. 1, the
panels (A, G)
are
1
/
4
" plywood so
they won’t expand and contract (and
so you won’t have to edge glue a lot
of panels). The problem is most
1
/
4
"
plywood only has one good side,
and with the open design, I wanted
the panels to look good outside and
in. So for each panel, I glued
two
pieces of
1
/
4
" plywood back-to-back.
The box on the opposite page will
walk you through how you can do
this quickly and efficiently.
STILES & RAILS
. The
stiles (B, C, H)
,
center stiles (D, I)
, and
upper (E,
J)
and
lower rails (F, K)
are all cut
to finished size from
3
/
4
"-thick stock,
as you can see in Fig. 1.
The first thing to do is cut the
grooves on all the pieces, as shown
in Fig. 2. They’re sized to hold the
doubled-layered panels, so I used a
1
/
4
"-wide dado blade setup and cen-
tered the grooves by flipping the
pieces end-for-end between passes.
You’ll want to sneak up on the posi-
tion of the fence so the plywood just
fits the grooves. And keep in mind
that the grooves are cut on
both
edges of the center stiles. Note: For
more on stub tenon and groove join-
er y, see the box in the left margin.
Next, the stub tenons can be cut
on the ends of the rails and center
stiles, as in Fig. 3. Like the grooves,
it’s quicker to use a dado blade (this
time with an auxiliar y fence). And
again, you want to sneak up on the
cut so the tenons fit the grooves.
Before these pieces can be
assembled, there’s a little work to
do on the bottom of the end stiles.
#/8"
B
C
END
STILES
!/2"
B
C
1"
Cut taper and
sand smooth
{
To hide the groove
at the bottom of
the end stiles, it’s
best to add a short
plug before you
cut the taper.
2
3
Frame piece
Flip piece
between passes
Auxiliary
fence
!/4
" dado
blade
a.
END VIEW
Thickness
of plywood
panels
Auxiliary
fence
a.
Aux.
fence
END VIEW
If you want to learn
more about stub
tenon and groove
joinery, check out
our web site:
Woodsmith.com
NOTE:
Cut grooves
on both edges of
center stiles (D, I)
!/2"
!/2"
Dado
blade
Dado blade
From
Woodsmith
Magazine
All rights reser ved
page 3 of 12
©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
!/4
%/16
First, I cut some plugs to glue into
the grooves, as shown in the upper
margin drawing on the opposite
page. Then the end of the stile can
be tapered, as in the lower margin
drawing. (I did this with a band saw,
but you can also use a hand saw.)
Once the tapers have been cut
and sanded smooth, the ends can be
assembled. This is pretty straight-
for ward. Just make sure the frame
stays flat and the pieces are flush
across the top. When both ends are
assembled, you can go ahead and
put the back together.
There are still a couple of steps to
complete before you can move on to
the face frame in front. As you can
see in Fig. 4, the first thing I did was
cut a simple rabbet on the
back
stile
of the end assemblies. This
1
/
4
"-deep
rabbet is sized to wrap around and
cover the edge of the back assem-
bly, as shown in Fig. 4a.
At this point, the next thing to do
is to cut a groove near the bottom of
each assembly. These will hold the
bottom panel later, so it’s important
they all line up (Fig. 1b). But note
that the grooves aren’t the same
depth. The ones on the ends are
1
/
4
"
deep, but the groove on the back is
a little deeper (
5
/
16
") so the bottom
panel can expand into the groove.
4
Back
edge
a.
Back fits into rabbets
in ends
#/4"
!/4"
J
Aux.
fence
E
n
d assembly
H
C
Dado
blade
E
5
Straightedge taped
to assembly
Back assemby
END VIEW
a.
Straightedge
Back
assembly
#/4
" dado
blade
3
!/2"
#/4"
%/16"
NOTE:
Groove in end
assembly is " deep
!/4
I figured the table saw is the best
way to keep the grooves aligned,
but with the “feet” on the bottom of
the assemblies, you can’t run the
bottom edge against the rip fence.
Fortunately, there’s an easy way
to get around this. Simply attach a
scrap straightedge to the bottom of
each assembly, using carpet tape to
hold it in place, as you can see in
Fig. 5. The thing you’ll want to con-
centrate on is keeping pressure
down on the assembly so the groove
is a consistent depth.
QUICK PANEL GLUE-UPS
This console requires a lot of
1
/
4
" plywood
panels that are glued up back-to-back. Rather
than glue each pair separately, I glued up each
set of panels at the same time, as you can see
in the left drawing below. And to help dis-
tribute the clamping pressure evenly, I sand-
wiched the panels between pieces of
3
/
4
"
MDF
.
When gluing the pairs together, you’ll
want to avoid using too much glue. (You
don’t want a lot of squeezeout.) And tr y to
keep the edges of the panels lined up as
much as possible. It’ll make it easier when
you trim them to final size, as in the right
drawing. (I trimmed each panel separately.)
MDF
Back
faces
together
Single panel
assembly
NOTE:
Avoid
excess glue
SECOND:
Cut off
opposite edge
to trim panel
to final width
FIRST:
Clean up
one edge
MDF
From
Woodsmith
Magazine
All rights reser ved
page 4 of 12
©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
a.
2
"
#/8"
N
1
!/2"
CENTER
STILE
M
RAIL
#/8"
b.
#/8"
STILE
L
1
!/4"
1
!/2"
#/4"
M
RAIL
#/8"
6
7
Face Frame
With the end and back
assemblies complete, the next sec-
tion to build is the front face frame. As
you can see in Fig. 6 above, this frame
creates the openings for the two draw-
ers and the adjustable shelf.
You’ve probably noticed by now
that the face frame is joined with
half laps. Unlike a mortise and
tenon joint, both pieces are cut with
basically the same setup, and you
will be able to find a step-by-step
article for this on our web site, see
the margin note at left. But there is
an even quicker way to build this
frame — with pocket hole screws,
as described in the box below. Just
#/4"
a.
Aux.
fence
#/8"
M
#/4"
L
FRONT
STILE
Dado
blade
#/8"
End
assembly
NOTE:
Width of
rabbet should match
thickness of ends
L
Want to know more
about cutting half
laps? Then take a
look at the article on
our web site:
Woodsmith.com
keep in mind that this will change
some of the dimensions.
STILES
. To make the face frame, I
started by cutting just the
front
stiles (L)
to size, as indicated in Fig.
6. Then on the outside edge I cut a
rabbet that will wrap around the end
panels, as shown in Figs. 7 and 7a.
RAILS
. Now you’re ready to cut the
front rails (M)
to finished size.
Usually with half-lap joints, the rails
would extend the full length of the
case. But instead of reaching to the
outside edges of the stiles, these
rails stop at the rabbets, as you can
see in Fig. 7a. So the rails end up
FAST FACE FRAMES WITH POCKET HOLE JOINERY
Pocket screw joiner y is quick — it’s designed
specifically for building face frames (like the
one for this project). And the procedure could
not be any simpler. The frame pieces are cut
to length so they butt together. Then you drill
some angled holes, as in the photo at left.
Finally, the pieces are clamped together and
secured with screws, as shown in the drawing.
To build this face frame with pocket
screws, you’re going to need a drilling jig,
some self-tapping screws, and a special
stepped drill bit. (A face clamp is also handy
for holding the faces of the pieces flush.) For
some mail order sources, turn to page 35.
NOTE:
Cut front rails
45 " long and
center stile
5 " long
!/2
#/8
Face
clamp
Frame pieces
butt together
From
Woodsmith
Magazine
All rights reser ved
page 5 of 12
©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
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